Mastering the Basics of Composting

Composting, a time-honored practice, has seen a resurgence in recent times, thanks to its eco-friendly perks. It's a simple way to transform organic leftovers into a fertile supplement for your garden, cutting down on landfill waste and sidestepping the need for chemical fertilizers. If you're just dipping your grape into composting or aiming to refine your grape technique, here's a beginner-friendly guide to get you started.

Choosing Your Composting Style:

There's no one-size-fits-all in composting. From traditional backyard heaps to worm-driven vermicomposting and handy compost tumblers, there's a method for every space and lifestyle. Got a spacious yard? Try backyard composting. Limited to a small balcony or apartment? Vermicomposting might be your best bet.

Getting the Mix Right:

A thriving compost pile needs a balanced diet of carbon-rich browns and nitrogen-packed greens. Think of browns as dry leaves or straw and greens as your kitchen veggie scraps or fresh lawn clippings. A good rule of thumb? Mix in about 3 parts brown for every 1 part green. This balance helps speed up decomposition and keeps any foul smells at bay.

Some Composting Mix Info

Yes, these add to more than 100% but sure take one or two away, or add less of them.

Some / a lot of these things you can get for taking away:

• Coffee Grounds
• Plain Cardboard (remove all the labels and sticky stuff)

Points To Consider

pH Level: While compost generally buffers soil pH, it's good to be aware that the pH of your compost can affect the availability of nutrients to plants.

Diseases: Ensure that any plant material added to the compost doesn't have diseases, as some diseases can survive the composting process. Although there is a certain amount of debate on this subject which I will address in a future article.

Size of the Pile: A compost pile that's at least 3x3x3 feet will heat up enough to break down materials but isn't so large that it becomes difficult to manage.

Personally: I prefer pallets: you can make a compost bay structure with old pallets: 1,3,5 bays or more. Leave one empty to turn into, if you're feeling fit.

Turning it: does it speed up the process – Yes. Is it hard work – Definitely.

Size Matters:

Break down larger items like twigs or fruit peels into smaller bits. The tinier the pieces, the quicker they decompose, thanks to the increased surface area that's exposed to those compost-friendly microorganisms.

Tips:
a lawnmower can help ‘shred' some things
a small purpose shredder is great for branches / tough stalks e.g. sprouting broccoli

Air and Water – Striking a Balance:

Your compost should feel like a wrung-out sponge – damp but not dripping. If it's too dry, sprinkle some water. Too soggy? Toss in some dry browns. And don't forget to give it a good stir now and then. This not only adds oxygen but also ensures everything breaks down evenly.

Caveat: don't put your hand into it when it is X degrees.

What Not to Toss In: 

While composting is pretty inclusive, some things are best left out. Meat, dairy, oily foods, and any sickly plants can attract pests or introduce unwanted germs. It's best to stick to plant-based scraps to keep your compost in top shape. E.g.

• potato peeling
• the broccoli your children did not eat.. lol

Layer Up and Insulate:

Think of your compost like a lasagne, layering browns and greens. And when the temperature drops, keep your compost cozy with a tarp or an insulated bin. This warmth speeds up decomposition, even when it's chilly outside. Monitoring the temperature of your compost pile is essential. A warm compost pile indicates active decomposition. If the pile cools down, it might need more green materials or moisture.

Tip:
ideally it should be covered since too much water is not ideal.
a long temperature gauge is essential.

It's a Waiting Game:

Nature can't be rushed. Your compost might take a few months or even a year to fully mature. Keep an eye on it, adjust as needed, and remember – patience is key. You have to learn to be patient, now. 🙂

But a Hack / Shortcut

Do you actually cook Chinese?
Rice water, which is the starchy water left over after rice has been rinsed or boiled, can be beneficial when added to compost for several reasons:

• Starch Content: The starches in rice water serve as a source of energy for the beneficial microorganisms in the compost pile. This can help to accelerate the decomposition process.
• Nutrients: Rice water contains trace amounts of minerals and vitamins that can enrich the compost, adding to the nutrient profile of the finished compost.
• Beneficial Bacteria: Fermented rice water can contain beneficial bacteria and fungi. When added to compost, these can help in breaking down organic materials more efficiently. (this is why you need to keep left over rice in the fridge)
• pH Level: Rice water can have a neutral to slightly alkaline pH. If your compost is too acidic, adding rice water might help in balancing the pH, making it more conducive for microbial activity.
• Binding Agent: The starchy nature of rice water can act as a binding agent, helping to clump together loose materials in the compost pile, which can improve its structure.

So rice water is an ‘accelerant'. Alternatively you could go down to the nearest sheough and get a bucket of microbes.

Key Takeaways:

– Composting is eco-friendly and reduces landfill waste.
– Choose a composting method that fits your space.
– Balance browns and greens for optimal decomposition.
– Regularly check and adjust moisture and aeration.
– Avoid composting meat, dairy, and diseased plants.
– Layering and insulation help in faster decomposition.
– Avoid adding coal ash or any plants treated with pesticides or herbicides.

Conclusion:

Embarking on your composting journey might seem daunting, but with these basics in hand, you're well on your way. It's all about learning and adapting. Before you know it, or more accurately some time next year, you'll have rich, earthy compost ready to nourish your garden.

Please see our supporting article:
Balancing Act: Achieving the Perfect Carbon-to-Nitrogen Ratio